For the past five months, that last bottle of Kozaemon nihonshu blended with the pungent yuzu citrus juice from Kochi was laying on the top shelf of our fridge. As the weather got closer and closer to being perfect for this very light, summery drink, the bottle stared back at me and I thought, “It is time”. Every time I opened the fridge was a daily reminder to myself of my promise and that summer was coming.
Last night, I had my first ayu gohan of the season at Igarashi. This simple dish, lightly grilled fresh water fish cooked with rice in a clay pot, is so distinctively summery to me and I especially appreciate the bitter taste of the sweetfish with rice.
I usually point out that we do not have a street and number system in Tokyo. Three sets of numbers at the end of a Tokyo address zeroes in from a big area, then to a specific block, and finally ends at a specific unit on that block. Then, just to make things interesting, I add that there’s no set direction for how the numbering goes up and down. It’s confusing, but at least that’s how I am so used to associating numbers and places.
“Please disregard the labels on this bottle. I want you to pay attention to only the part that says yongo.” As Takamura-san brought out the fourth bottle to the table, he started to tell us the story.
In the next few month, I will be in Kyoto a few more times. I am sure I will add more good sake bars on the list, but Inaseya is definitely the place to go back for to check out what other funky crazy new muroka nama genshu they have in stock!
… Finally, I think it is the people that makes this tagine ryori and nihonshu place so comfortable. Shimada-san and Ichikawa-san behind the counter are perfect professionals, but their passion for nihonshu kind of rubs off. It’s just fun to sit at the counter and watch them and chat about sake when they have a moment. They do not have an English menu, but don’t worry. If you have nihongo-phobia, Shimada-san and Ichikawa-san can guide you through their menu and drinks in English.
Ippaku Suisei is brewed by Fukurokuju Shuzo from Akita. I always enjoy their sake, but this just-brewed bottle was especially good; with a full, heavy feel in the middle, then finishing very clean.
After the crabfest at Gyosantei, we started our third day at a hotel which also serves as a dormitory for sailors by the port of Sakaiminato. Although not a soul besides us seemed to be wandering the harbor or the streets on that sunny spring morning, the clear sky at this working port town was filled with the “clang, clang, clang” from the shipyard echoing through an otherwise very peaceful neighborhood.
“You are lucky, it’s the last day of the crab season…. Where did you come from?” the owner asked as we were leaving. Then the natural flow of question lead to why. “To visit Chiyomusubi Shuzo”, we responded. “Haaa, Chiyomusubi-san????”
As we were sitting at the counter at a cozy bar, Ishii, sipping sake and munching on deep-fried satsuma age the owner made that day, our eyes were set on the series of beautiful pictures of Azuma Rikishi cave on the big screen. After seeing how the bottles are aging in the huge cave where sake and tiny bats co-exit very happily, how can you resist the temptation to try an Azuma Rikishi tasting set?