For the past five months, that last bottle of Kozaemon nihonshu blended with the pungent yuzu citrus juice from Kochi was laying on the top shelf of our fridge. As the weather got closer and closer to being perfect for this very light, summery drink, the bottle stared back at me and I thought, “It is time”. Every time I opened the fridge was a daily reminder to myself of my promise and that summer was coming.
Last night, I had my first ayu gohan of the season at Igarashi. This simple dish, lightly grilled fresh water fish cooked with rice in a clay pot, is so distinctively summery to me and I especially appreciate the bitter taste of the sweetfish with rice.